During our weekly classes, we’ve been discussing the current ecological situation around Baikal, and the ways in which the tourism industry has contributed to many of the problems. Starting this year our program has stopped going to one of the possible burial sites of Genghis Khan because so much of the trash generated by tourists to that island is dumped into the sea. On a smaller scale level, I believe our group has done everything we can to minimize our environmental impact: We traveled as a group within a tour bus and while in Moscow we made use of public transportation, though we saw exactly one recycling bin during our entire time in Buryatia we were diligent about making sure non of our trash was left lying about, and we even avoided eating omul’ – a fish endemic to Lake Baikal whose population has been threatened by overfishing. However, there are many aspects which we contribute to just by being around Baikal as tourists, and it’s important to be aware of these.

The influx of tourists to the Baikal region has led to more roads being paved. This in turn leads to more tourism and increased fuel emissions in the area. Omul’ is very popular with tourists as well as locals, and restaurants will order it regardless of whether our small tourist group decides to eat it or not. We pay for the same services other tourists use and monetarily contribute to this industry. None of these are things we can fix on our own or even influence as foreigners, but we also can’t ignore them just because there are no obvious answers.

While furs are popular as an outerwear material, leather seems to be the most popular choice for handbags. Several times while riding the metro I noticed women carrying leather handbags with Italian names embossed on the front. The prevalence of these luxury materials seems puzzling given Russia’s current economic situation, however it made more sense when I remembered something I’d heard while studying Russia in the U. S.. Russian’s have a saying “We’re not so rich as to buy cheap things”, and in my opinion this really gets to the heart of the matter. In the U. S. we place great emphasis on choice, and that makes the fast fashion model so prevalent here. While Western stores like H&M which produce clothes according to the fast fashion model operate with success in Russia, you’re far more likely to see people wearing clothing items which are far more durable and timeless in terms of fashion. “You might only have one suit, but it will be a very nice suit”, to paraphrase the words of Anna Mikhailovna, one of my professors.

I think that in America we view these items as luxuries without actually taking into account the benefits of more durable materials and the necessity of warmer clothes during harsher winters. It’s definitely something to keep an eye out for if you decide to visit Moscow.

It makes sense that staff in places meant to cater to tourists would be trained to speak in English, however I did feel an odd sort of tension as someone learning Russian as a second language. If I continue to speak in Russian after being spoken to in English, am I being rude? Am I making someone’s job harder by insisting on ordering in Russian, especially if I may be pronouncing words incorrectly? But as a student, am I neglecting immersion if I only speak English? The matter is also further complicated by the fact that in many cases Russians use British terms and speak English with a British accent. If I’m expecting to hear Russian and someone responds in British English, I might actually have more difficulty understanding in the moment.

In the case of restaurants, many times waiters have looked at me funny for requesting Russian menus if they’ve already brought English ones. While this definitely happens more often in areas that experience a lot of traffic from tourists, it’s something that I’ve experienced in all different parts of Moscow. It was actually only when we went to Siberia and it stopped happening that I was able to recognize the tension of those earlier exchanges. The areas we went to in Buryatia definitely had people who spoke English and wanted to practice just as in Moscow, however they were far less insistent on speaking only in English. People at souvenir shops were able to tell that I was a foreigner and probably American when I spoke, but did not insist on switching languages. Though it’s not a huge obstacle, it’s definitely something students learning Russian as a second language should be aware of.

Russia, just like the U.S., has a diverse population with people from several different ethnic groups and countries holding citizenship. However, unlike in the U. S., there seems to be less pressure in Russia to assimilate. Someone ethnically German whose family moved to Russia generations ago probably retains a great deal of their culture in their family life, and so knowing this about them also tells you a little bit about their life. The same would not necessarily be true if that person lived in the U. S., and leveling that question at someone has the unspoken implication that you’ve noticed something different about them- something off. Each time I’d been asked the question while in Russia, the asker had not been ethnically Russian. Rather than seeming like a way to question someone’s level of belonging, it seemed more like a way to relate on common ground.

Another major difference between Russia and the U. S. that made me more comfortable with these questions is the perception of second language learners. In the U. S. you can be derided for having a noticeable accent while speaking English, especially if your first language is Spanish. However, in Russia, every time someone realized I was a foreigner because of my accent they just seemed happy to know I was learning Russian and putting work in to better understand the language. Sure, there were a few times shopkeepers couldn’t quite understand me, but overall I found no reason to be anxious over having people know I was a foreigner. It’s definitely something that encouraged me to step outside of my comfort zone and helped me to shed my anxiety when interacting with strangers in public. In a previous blog post I mentioned how many stores and kiosks are set up so you have to describe or point out exactly what you want to the cashier in order to buy something. At first I avoided these because I was so anxious about being able to accurately describe what I wanted. During our last few weeks in Moscow I made an effort to find these types of shops specifically and to force myself to order exactly what I wanted and not to just pick something that was convenient to point at. Shopkeepers could usually tell I was foreign, but in every case they were accommodating and helpful, which definitely helped me to improve.

It’s easy to be put off by these types of questions, even if they may not seem offensive they are rather personal. However, in Russia they simply help you to get to know someone better and the people asking usually have the kindest of intentions.

Before our group left for Siberia we had to drop off our large pieces of luggage at our professors’ apartment, and in order to get our luggage off campus we had to acquire exit forms for our luggage. This struck me as irritating and unnecessary- the logic behind requiring paperwork to bring things in seems sound to me from a security standpoint, but what good does it do anybody to make bringing things out more difficult? I was later told that this was a measure to prevent theft, but I’m still skeptical regarding its effectiveness. While we were checking out, the dezhurnaya kept asking questions and would not fill out the exit cards until we had answered them to her satisfaction. When were we leaving? Tomorrow? Then why were we taking our bags out tonight? Where would we be taking our bags? Where would we be staying after we left? She wasn’t being mean, and I got the feeling she was also asking these questions out of genuine interest, however it felt strange to be asked so many questions just to take our bags out.

Many small grocery stores and almost all kiosks are set up so that a single cashier controls all movement of product. If you want something you have to ask for it and specify exactly what you want, which can be very intimidating for someone learning Russian as a second language. I remember being at a small grocery shop and ordering flavored chips. The ones I wanted were plainly visible, however the cashier couldn’t find them and simply selected another. This set up makes sense as an anti-theft measure, but I must admit I did avoid ordering from many goods kiosks and small stores because of how off-putting the whole experience was to me.

I can’t say if the extra layer of security and supervision actually prevents theft but I can definitely see how it would act as a deterrent. Still, it was one thing with which I was never able to get fully comfortable.

Multiple events can happen simultaneously within an icon. The mother of God lays dying while at the same time she is resurrected.

Russian orthodox icons are a complex and symbolic art form, and if you’re anything like me it might be a little bit overwhelming to enter a church and be confronted with the ornate murals and icons adorning every wall. In addition, most churches -especially historically significant ones- do not allow photography within so it is important to be able to understand the artwork in the moment. Learning a bit about the structure of an Orthodox Church as well as the most popular symbols used in icons can help you to better appreciate the numerous churches, convents, and monasteries you may visit while in Russia.

Christ is situated within the center of a mandorla. This symbol denotes a sacred and transcendent moment.

While in Vladimir and Suzdal we had the opportunity to see several historic churches and monasteries and to learn more about the symbolism behind many of their features. For example, churches named in honor of the Virgin Mary will often have light blue cupolas decorated with gold stars. Mary is often depicted in icons wearing robes of this same light blue color. Another way to determine who or what the church is dedicated to is to take a look at the iconostasis. On the bottom row, the second icon to the right of the Golden Gates will show the patron saint or event of the church. Above this first row is the Deisis row, depicting Christ Pantocrator flanked by the Virgin Mary, St. John the Baptist, as well as other saints and angels (space permitting). The twelve great feasts of the liturgical calendar are often placed in the third row, directly above the Deisis. The fourth row usually depicts Old Testament Saints and Patriarchs while the fifth row contains icons of the twelve apostles.

Another example of abstraction within iconography is the depiction of cloth. Drapery is often too sharp and stiff to represent how real cloth would behave, but they also serve to differentiate cloth from other materials and parts of the icon.

In addition to the iconostasis there are often several icons covering the other walls of the church. Below each icon is a candle holder, and the faithful will light candles and place them below these saints as an offering in prayer. After seeing a few icons you might think that many of the icons have the same face, but this is not exactly correct. Icons and even architectural features depicting saints, angels, Mary, or Jesus are all created with liks- a different word than the one used for the faces of mundane people. A Lik is not quite a face and not quite a mask, they are not meant to be accurate depictions of a religious figure’s face, but are rather abstractions which call to mind the figure they represent. These ‘faces’ are often painted with a dark base color with sharp contrasting highlights which create the central features. The eyes are large and round, the nose is long and narrow with a pinched bridge, and the mouth is small. The penchant for abstraction goes beyond the faces of the figures: buildings, tables, chairs, and even footstools are also subtly altered so that sides which would be hidden from the viewer in real life are actually exposed. Another popular bit of abstraction is the depiction of the trinity as a trio of Archangels. This was first done by Andrew Rublyov in 1411 and many others followed suit.

Rublyov depicts the holy trinity indirectly through three angels. Rublyov’s depiction of the trinity in this manner became very popular among other icon painters.

After contemplating the iconostasis and turning to leave, you may notice a rather grisly scene above the exit doors. This is a Strashny Sud, or Judgement Day. When I began looking more closely at Strashny Suds I was struck by how abstract and often hidden the devil is. I didn’t realize that the small and fuzzy red shape was meant to be the devil until my professor pointed it out to me.

This is hardly a comprehensive guide but I hope that it provides some useful information and things to look for the next time you’re in a Russian Orthodox Church.

References and Further Reading:

Dr. Diane Nemec Ignasheva

https://www.rbth.com/longreads/Russian_icons/

https://russianicons.wordpress.com/

https://russianicons.wordpress.com/tag/oklad/

The Icons of the Iconostasis

Having had to adjust to many changes since arriving in Moscow, I’ve found that some aspects of the life of a college student here are familiar to me, while others are quite foreign; finding something to eat is one area of daily life that embodies this simultaneous similarity and contrast. MSU is both familiar and foreign to me in various ways one aspect of my life as a college student that MSU has many times more students than Carleton (40,000 undergraduates to Carleton’s 2000) so there are several more cafeterias to choose from, as well as cafes and food shops within each of the academic buildings. I was shocked on my first day of classes when I found out that there was a place to eat on nearly every floor of the building where I have classes. While cafeterias and shops are far more prevalent on the MSU campus than at Carleton, sitting down for a meal here feels largely the same as it did at Carleton.

Just as with Carleton’s dining halls, hot items are served to students cafeteria style, while small items like salads and desserts are self-serve. I also had the opportunity to eat at a restaurant with a similar serving style while on an excursion here. Stolovaya No. 57, on the third floor of GUM, cashes in on the nostalgia for soviet-style self-service. I ate there during an excursion and was impressed with both the quality of the food and the effort put into the décor.

Having had the opportunity to take a course on food in Russian culture with a component taught in the Russian language, I was well acquainted with some key differences to be found between Russian and American cuisine. For example, Russian salads are vastly different from what I’m accustomed to in America. While Americans tend to place a small amount of protein on top of a bed of lettuce, arugula, or spinach, Russians utilize root vegetables, fruits, and meats in more equal proportions, yielding delicious results. I always hated the lack of substance that define salads in America, so this has been a welcome change.